The climb from Photoksar to the Sengge La base camp was not difficult. We first climbed over a small pass called the Bumitse La and then contoured up a long valley as far as possible until we reached the snow. There we camped so that we could climb the pass early the next morning.

We got our first bit of unsettling news along the trail when we met a team of mules going the other direction. At first this was encouraging because it showed at least one group had made it over. But as our guide talked with their team leader it became clear that the bad weather had indeed made two of the upcoming passes difficult, at least for pack animals. The Sengge La right ahead of us was indeed snowy and slippery at the top, and a later pass called Hanuma La required going through a narrow gorge that had deep snow from previous avalanches. This team had actually lost one mule in that stretch.

Over dinner it became clear that our plans were not to be. While we were resting, our guide and animal men had gone partway up the pass and at least one of the donkey men had declared himself unwilling to go on. It was not surprising given the pitiful state of the tiny animals he had brought, which seemed to have trouble carrying loads on level ground. But we were quite frustrated with our high-priced trekking company who had not even breathed a doubt about our planned route even though it must have been known that no one was getting through and they could not get strong animals.

Frustrated or not, we had to make an alternate plan. Our guide was great, proposing we climb to the pass in the morning and then return by an alternate route through the canyons we had rushed through earlier. We would then take a car on the long but scenic road into the Zanskar valley and continue with the final part of our trek.

At least the weather was finally clearing, which meant a cold night and hard snow for the next morning's climb.