Day 14 – May 16 – Up and over to Tangge

We knew the days back on the East side would be harder and they would become increasingly difficult as we went on. Like the West side, where we went up, the trail climbs high over one ridge after another, but here the trail also has to dip down to the river valley between each climb, as the East side is cut by deep ravines draining the high mountains north of Annapurna.

By staying at Yaragaon we had already completed part of the first climb. Without much trouble, we climbed the rest of the way up to a broad shelf above the wind-eroded cliffs we had seen on the previous day. Like the US Grand Canyon's Tonto Shelf, this canyon had a wide, slightly sloping area that was relatively flat before plunging over cliffs to the inner canyon.



The trail was obscure enough to be missing from our map, but our guide knew the way. By late morning, we had reached the next side canyon, where we dropped down over the cliffs and crossed the stream.

Our map did show the next section but was unclear on its location. Thinking we just needed to climb to the next shelf, we happily began the climb. But it soon became obvious that the trail actually climbed up over a pass almost at the top of the ridge. In exchange for our efforts, we got great views over the canyon landscape.



On the other side of the pass, we could see why this was necessary. Between this ridge and a smaller one to the south, we had to cross a section of rutted badlands. Up high, this meant merely crossing six or eight ravines where the trail dipped five or six meters (15-20 feet), then climbed back up. But lower down, these dry watercourses would have been completely impassible. At the other side, we crossed the lower ridge and were rewarded with another flat shelf that could have been somewhere in Nevada.

A kilometer or two later, we dropped down a cliff to Tangge, our resting place for the evening. Tangge has a linked group of chortens (burial monuments).



We stayed at a small house that was more primitive than anything before. Being only one story high, this house had no bathroom other than an easy trip out the back door. As before, we were told to sleep in the house chapel, which was mostly a storage place for drums and yak butter lamps. Another room held a loom, which the family used for making rough cloths. Our guide helped the illiterate father write his address so we could mail him this picture we took of his children.

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