It is late afternoon of our second full day in Nepalgunj waiting for transport to Juphal and the beginning of our trek. Tom and I recall now that “waiting for transport” is an experience we’ve had before while embarked on a rough and ready tour. Most recently in Kaktovik, Alaska, on the Arctic Ocean, pinned down by bad weather, we waited patiently for a flight back to Fairbanks.

Even though both the temperature and humidity are high we set out from the refuge of our hotel to have a look at Nepalgunj. It is one of Nepal’s largest cities. The streets are crammed with bicycles, bicycle rickshaws, horse-drawn carts carrying people or freight and tractors pulling loads of bricks or lumber.

Women are wearing colorful saris or the pants and overdress salwar kameez. A few women are in full black burka. Men are wearing a wide variety of traditional clothing. Many, especially younger men, wear western clothing. Though the loose fitting traditional garments appear more comfortable for the climate.

While walking around, we saw one other western couple. But western foreigners are rare here. Even our Sherpa guide and cook are foreigners here. The locals love to stare at us. Only the young and old are brave enough to risk interacting with us. Young boys and girls offer a shy “Hi” or “Hello” and seem tickled to get a response get in English. A very old sari-clad woman made a big point of vigorously waving to us from across the street and gave me a wide toothless grin when I waved back.